The beets are not yet boiling. They brood at the bottom of the
pot—spherical, dense and rough skinned—progressively disappearing into
a fog of red. These beets are like Abraham, Isaac and Jacob—a number
of their contemporaries have also gathered— woefully moaning—really,
they are quite sympathetic to all they must leave behind. But please
be silent—shhhhhhhh! Don't be distracted by the murmurs of those who
must lift all of humankind, their bulbous muscles and brains now
rupturing in the boil. Hear the gentle blub of the water—our God is
crying! The sweet bitterroot smell filling frightened nostrils.
After lowering the heat, I scoop one of the beets from the pot with a
large metal spoon. Its pink-gray skin steams as it wobbles with
irritation—spitting curses from a hairy purple-knotted mouth. I place
it under the faucet and run the cold water. I touch it with a few
curious fingers—Ouch! The beet is still hot. I let more of the chilly
stream cleanse the surface of its fire-disturbed insides. Now, the
mass must be a little bit cooler, so I conclude. I begin to peel the
beet. But ouch! Ouch!!! An unexpectedly annoyed heat hisses from the
core.
My mother never taught me how to cook. My father never taught me a
thing. I only watched their activity from the distance of my little
chair. Her cold wet hands. His hot working hands. Without speaking,
their gesticulations imparted the total separation between me and the
world, me and time, me and culture, me and whatever family might lie
beyond them, preparing a lineage of food. So the equation continues: I
do not know what I am cooking. All I know is that I am boiling beets.
Though without enough water in the pot, they now wade and
fume—half-submerged, beached whales resigned in the shallows.
Ethnically diluted artifacts just barely resisting the anonymity of
culinary violence. I can boil them no longer, pity has overcome me. I
turn off the fire. They growl as the bubbles subside, the residual
heat leaving in mournful wisps from their pinched and gnarled heads. I
fish them out one by one and dump them into the strainer in the sink.
They land with hard recalcitrant thumps. I run the water ice cold over
their exiled underground forms. My heart bangs with guilt as the
faucet screeches. I mutter aloud "I don't care!" over and over again,
desensitizing myself to the possibility of gastrointestinal
catastrophe. I split one of the steaming globes down its middle and
slice out a triangle of meat. Mmmh…Hmmm? Sweet. But is it still too
bitter? Maybe this is the way a beet is supposed to taste before the
other ingredients of the recipe are added? Or is it undercooked? Or
not yet ripe! This hopeless cycle of guessing spins my brain. I have
no way of answering. And I have no patience. All I can do is lift a
beet and strike its skin with the blade of the peeler. But wait! What
is this? In all of my anxiety, my thumb pressed hard against the
beet's surface and the skin just smushed right off? Could if be true?
Could the process of boiling loosen the skin! Ah, the genius of heat
and water and the human mind! I begin to press my fingers all over the
beet's exterior, and everywhere I press, the skin slides right off,
the cold water purifying my fingers and the beet. The beet—a perfectly
nude round mass. An effervescent holy being in my hands! A naked
little god! I want to cry! I am crying. There are no tears, no
convulsions, but my heart bleeds like a beet in its boiling water. I
strip beet after beet with euphoric fingers until all lay naked and
panting on the white kitchen counter, their skin in mucus piles of
black organic string.
Who am I? A man who has just scalped the Patriarchs. An American
orphaned by his Jewishness, crossing the fragile border of his
cultural emptiness, entering the timelessness of America. My hands are
red—I fear the stains are permanent. I begin to slice open the beets.
Chop them into half-inch chunks. I taste an appendage from each. The
bitter sweet overwhelming my taste buds with a chain reaction of
uncertain questions—the same ones I am never able to answer. Though my
lips are a viable biological instrument like any other, they protrude
from a glass mouth that can never truly decipher taste, only allow
transparency from an enviously staring brain, eyeing from deep below
as the warm red liquid fills its glass bowl. Seconds later. Years
later. Mother's hands—mine, mechanically drain the blood from the pot
in a kind of sadomasochistic trance.
Though not tasting, my tongue is reminded of a very strong and pungent
odor that I cannot quite remember. Perhaps, the first spreading of my
cells from when I was just a tiny nugget deep in the black universe of
my mother's womb, when I did not even have a nose or mouth. Hanging
there in her boundless dark gunk, watching the seconds of infinity
shrink down into actual narrative time. By the handful, I place the
chopped beets into the bowl, returning them to their blood. Vinegar
must be added as a homeopathic agent, curing them of the pain caused
by their dismemberment. Still, they may gather and reform what was so
hard with thick skin. The love of roots that was viciously yanked from
deep in the firm soil. Firm like their backs that carry their circle,
the distorted sphere of yearning to taste. Their bitterness reduced by
honey, minced onion, salt and pepper to taste. To reduce desire, then
terror, then love for a past that can never surpass the solitude of
beets.
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